The AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ jack is now very hard to find in the USA. Due to the weak dollar, and the site of manufacture, which is Denmark, the jack has become so high-priced that few distributors will carry it. See the "jack choices" section for my latest updates of good jacks for your C6.
I'd certainly suggest you choose option (1) above. Then you can either use the "Clever" way, or the "Quick $ way". The quick $$$ way is to buy the AC hydraulics DK13HLQ, or similar jack as I've listed below, shove it under the car, and be done in 30 seconds. The problem is that the AC Hydraulics jack costs > $600, IF you can find one. The Harbor Freight #68050. is probably the single best choice for now, because it is easily available, from a reliable vendor, and costs only $140 - a STEAL, compared to the other jacks I've shown below.
When shopping for a jack, make sure it can meet all the spec requirements to get under that front cross-member. I've included a list of good jack choices there. But please let me know if you find another jack that can jack the C6 from the front without using wood blocks or ramps. I'd love to keep this page updated with best jack information.
Your other option is to spend $50 on a two-ton jack from Walmart or NAPA, and use the clever method shown below. But after the first time, that becomes a real nuisance, so investing in the $$$ jack was well worth it to me.
Here are some supplies you might need. Your ic needs depend upon which of the above methods you choose to lift your C6.
|Jack pucks. These hook onto specific locations on the Vette, and protect your rocker panels from damage by the jack. Don't lift without them. If you lift from the front like me, the pucks will be held by your jack stands as they support the car.|
|NAPA #5202007 Two-ton jack stands. $20 / pair.|
|2" X 10" lumber. You'll want to cut it into 4 sections about 2' long each, one for under each wheel.|
|Wheel chocks. The ones I have are NAPA #BK 7303998. You'll want to have at least two pairs of these, to chock both the front and the rear of the wheels that you're not raising.|
Credit for this method goes to 97vette.com. The basic idea is that you cannot slide your standard jack far enough under the nose of the car for it to reach the front cross-member, so you need to drive the car up on blocks of wood first. The advantage of this method is that it allows you to use a cheapy $40 jack to get the job done, without having to pay several hundred more for a true low profile jack.
|First, drive up onto your sections of 2X10. This picture shows me using a 2X4, and that's just not the best way to do it. Use a 2" X 10" or 2" X 12" plank, and cut it into at least 2 pieces. You'll drive up on these in order to get the car high enough so that you can get your standard jack under the front end.|
|Be sure to park the car on a perfectly flat surface. NO HILLS! Turn the engine off, set the emergency brake securely. Then position your wheel chocks around the two wheels that will stay on the ground (in this photo those are the rear wheels that need to be chocked.|
| Now review the proper jacking locations on the C6.
|Here's where I lift the C6. This corresponds to the purple location on the diagram.|
|Here the different locations are shown.
|Here's the front right insertion slot for the jacking puck. There are four slots like this on the car, in the locations indicated in my diagram. This is where I support the car, using jack stands, after I've raised it.|
|Here's the C6 now comfortably resting on the jack stands.|
First see the important update above. The DK13HLQ may no longer be available in the USA.
The "clever method" works, but it has some drawbacks. It takes a lot of steps to get it done. You'll probably have to reposition your 2X10 pieces of wood several times to get the car positioned correctly. The car might drive completely over one piece of wood, so you'll have to get out, reposition, and try again. Most importantly, if you you're using this method, you really cannot chock the wheels properly (while the car is up on the wood), which means you have seriously compromised your safety.
If you just buy a true "low profile" jack, you can avoid all these steps and get the car up in less than 30 seconds. This means that you do not have to drive up on wooden planks - just throw the jack under the car and pump it up.
I love my AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ jack. But it is now difficult to find, and outrageously expensive. Scroll down below - where I'm keeping a list of good Corvette jacks, with the requirement that they have a low enough profile, and long enough reach to be able to jack the car from the front-center, as pictures below show (also see specifications, below). This is really the best way to get the car up in less than 30 seconds. No repositioning - less than 10 pumps on the jack, and it's perfect every time. Much better then starting and stopping the car 6 times to drive up on planks of wood.
The Omega 2903 jack seems to be a great deal, with all the right specifications, and a far better price than the DK13HLQ. As far as I can tell, this is exactly the same jack as the "Blackhawk 29023". But I have not personally used this jack, so I cannot vouch for it. As always, I welcome your feedback and review if you try this jack - let me know your thoughts.
Current price $270 + $74 shipping at Northern Tool.
$349 including shipping at asedeals.com.
ATD 2-ton extra-low profile service jack. 115 pounds, minimum height 2.5", length (not necessarily the total reach) = 42.25 inches. This seems to fit the specs we want, though I have not yet heard a review from anyone who's tried one. Great price at $257 from National Tool Warehouse.com. Worth a look, but check the shipping costs before you buy. It is a heavy one at 116 lbs.
Harbor Freight 2 Ton Low Profile Jack #68050. 93 pounds, minimum height 2-5/8", length (not the total reach) = 39.5". Maximum frame height 5.75", Reach 26.5", which is less than the ideal 32" that we're looking for. But my friend Jim Harris uses this jack for his 2009 coupe and it works fine. To get the 6 extra inches to reach the front crossmember, he is able to lay down the handle and slide the body of the jack under the nose a bit (see photo below). At 5.75" maximum frame height, this would side under my own nose well enough,but to be sure - take measurements of your own car before buying this. At $140 from Harbor Freight.com, this is currently the least expensive way to jack your Vette from the front.
See the pictures Jim took of his 2009 coupe below.
To buy, click on the jack photo above.
Compac 2-ton 90541 Floor Jack. 91 pounds, minimum height 3.54", length = 37.4 inches. Acutal reach 30.5" - but with a frame height of only 5" - this entire jack would slide under even the airdam area of the front of my Vette - so you can easily slide the jack under the nose an extra 1.5" to reach that front crossmember. See the picture below and click for larger view. Currently $522 with free shipping at Reverselogic.us.
If you've used this jack, please send a picture of it jacking the Vette from the front, to help our other Vette buddies. Great thanks to my friend Fred at Reverselogic for providing these photos. The dimensions above the yellow horizontal line are the distance from the center of the saddle to that point. The numbers below the line are the height of the jack at that point. It's just a coincidence that the jack is 3.5" high at a point that is 3.5" behind the saddle center.
Here is the short list of requirments you should look for, before laying down any cash for a new jack:
|What you need in a jack for the C6:|
|AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ ($800)||Omega 29023^ ($349)||ATD7325||Harbor 68050||Compac 90541|
|Capacity:||3000 pounds (1.5 ton)*||2900 lbs||4000 lbs||4000 lbs||4000 lbs||4000 lbs|
|Weight||85 lbs||123 lbs||116 lbs||102 lbs||91 lbs|
|Minimum height of jack||≤ 5-1/8" **||3.1"||2.5"||2.5"||2.63"||3.54"|
|Frame Length||(will be slightly longer than reach, so definitely do not buy jack with length < 32")||37"||42.25"||42.25"||39.5"||37.4"|
*Since the weight of the C6 is approximately 3247 pounds. Of course, the jack in reality will never be supporting the entire weight of the car, but may have to support half of this weight. Also note that the rated weight allows some extra safety tolerance. It is likely that this jack would fail at twice its rated capacity, not AT the rated capacity.
** This is not necessarily the maximum height of the jack - see below
***As shown below in photo, a 32" reach would allow you to reach the front crossmember without lowering the handle of your jack. Both the Harbor and the Compaq jacks have no trouble reaching, despite being #<32", because the height of the body of the jack is low enough to reach under the nose of the Vette. See photo of the Harbor jack above, how the handle is lowered to make the reach. My photo of my Vette and the DK13HLQ below shows that is the only jack I know that can make the reach without lowering the handle.
ND = not disclosed. The Omega jack has a base length of 42", but I don't know how much of that length will actually fit under the C6. Note that the DK13HLQ boasts a frame length of 37", but in reality has only 32" of reach. So you have to be careful and never assume that frame length and reach are equivalent.
^ : As far as I can tell, the Omega 29023 and the Blackhawk 29023 are the same jack.
|This is what they mean by the "reach" of a jack. You do need exactly 32" in order to reach the front cross-member of the C6 without resorting to using pieces of wood, etc, that we used in the "clever" method.|
|With the AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ, the long reach makes it easy. Here the jack is in perfect position to lift by the front cross-member.|
The AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ fits nicely under the low clearance of the C6. With the front airdam completely folded up, you have only a clearance of 5-1/8"
It is OK that the maximum frame height of this jack is 6-5/16", since the highest part of the jack does not need to go under the lowest clearance point.
This picture shows the jack ready to go - it does not have to go any further under the car than this to reach that front cross-member.
|Just 10 quick pumps on the handle, and the car is up. No wood, no repositioning. No hassle. Perfect every time!|
You'll want to talk to some guys on your favorite bulletin board and verify that a specific brand and model of jack will truly work, before you buy. But at least I can absolutely verify that the DK13HLQ is perfect.
|Looking in from the rear, identify the rear cross-member, pictured here with asterisks on it.|
|Here's a close-up view, showing the triangle shape that you'll see in the middle of the cross-member - apply your jacking pad directly to that spot.|
|The AC Hydraulics jack in place. The long reach makes it simple to get to the rear cross-member.|
|Final view. Note the location of the jacking pucks, which I use to mount the jack stands.|
Also note that once I have the car up on the jack stands, I still always leave the jack in place anyway, as a safety. You can't be too careful.