There is an entire industry built around this simple act - absolutely as simple as changing a light bulb. You're supposed to be afraid that you don't have the skill or the training to do this, that if you make one wrong move the car will blow up. Well, you CAN do this - faster and better than a drive-through place because you'll take extra care to check for leaks, you'll use top quality oil instead of some cheap bulk brand. And you don't have to make an appointment and wait. You do it whenever YOU have the time.
Well, like everything in the world (taking out a gallbladder, changing spark plugs, changing your home's wiring) it's fantastically easy if you just get someone to show you how to do it once. So I think some pictures will convince you to do this even if you've never jacked a car up before. Take a look, get the equipment - then feel proud that you did it yourself.
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| Filter | Engine | Other Specs | |
| 2005 | AC Delco PF46 Duraguard | LS2 | 400 bhp@6000rpm. 400 ft-lb torque @ 4400 rpm. 6 L displacement (364.1 cu in.) |
| 2006 | AC Delco PF46 Duraguard | LS2 | |
| 2007 | AC Delco PF48 Duraguard* | LS2 | |
| 2008 | AC Delco PF48 Duraguard | LS3 | 430 bhp @ 5900 rpm. 424 ft-lb torque @ 4600 rpm. 6.2 L displacement (376.0 cu in). |
| 2009 | AC Delco PF48 Duraguard | LS3 |
Source: Corvette owner's manuals for the appropriate years.
You can also use the reference utility at the AC-Delco web site to look up your vehicle. Thanks to my buddy "Cclive" for writing in to tell me about the changeover to the PF48 starting with the 2007 model.
*Note that even though the engine of the 2007 is still the LS2, the oil filter was changed to the PF48. This is not a typographical error. Apparently, the threads are slightly different, and the PF-48 provides better oil flow. This is according to the expert technicians on that post. My bottom line here is that you should stick with what your owner's manual says: use the filters as designated in the table above.
Also read more about GM's engine development history.
The company and web site have changed their name to "Quickdrain oil valve.com", but it's still better known as the Fumoto vavle. This gadget is truly the greatest thing since the invention of the pizza. Instead of taking the oil drain plug off, having it spurt oil all over you and your garage, why not have a drain valve that you can open and close? This way you can:
If you're ordering for your Vette, you'll need to get:
First, apply emergency brake, put chocks behind and in front of the rear wheels. See the JACK page for details on how to get the car up. The AC Hydraulics DK13HLQ really makes this a 30-second effort. Well worth the money.
 | Placement of the chocks - don't forget to put chocks in front of the rear wheel also. |
 | The DK13HLQ jack fits nicely under the front air dam. |
 | Side view showing placement of the jack pad under the front crossmember. The quickest way to get the car up. |
 | Once the car is up, put your jack pucks in place, and set your jackstands. All of this is shown in detail at the jacking page on this site. BE SAFE ! I always use two jackstands, AND leave a jack under the front cross member as an added safety precaution. |
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 | When you slide under the car - slide in from the front, on the driver's side of center (on the left side of the undercarriage). That's because the filter and drain plug are on the left side of the oil pan. This photo shows you what you'll see. The TOP of the photo is the FRONT of the car. The BOTTOM of the photo is toward the REAR of the car. Items seen on the RIGHT of the photo, of course, are actually on the LEFT side of the car, since you're looking up from underneath. |
 | Take off the stock drain plug. You'll need a 13mm wrench. Be prepared for the gush of oil once you take the bolt out. position your oil dain pan to the LEFT side of the car, because you can see - the oil will not drain stright out - it will arc out toward the left side of the car. And hold on tight to the oil drain plug so it does not fall into the dirty oil in your drain pan |
 | Let the oil drain. Then unscrew the oil filter. Often this can be done by hand alone, but sometimes the filter is stuck, and you'll have to use a handy filter wrench to get it off. You can get one of these at any NAPA store. |
 | Be prepared to get dirty. There's no way to get that filter off without having a gush of oil on your hands. So make sure the oil is NOT so hot it will burn you. A good indicator is just to feel the oil pan before you even get started. It's nice to have the oil warm, so it flows easily, but if the oil pan is uncomfortable to the touch, wait and come back later. |
 | Take your new filter out of the box. Pour a little oil into it, then take your finger and spread a thin film of clean oil around the rubber seal. This will help the seal to spin as you install the filter, for a better, tight closure. |
 | Here's how the Fumoto oil drain valve and the adapter extension will fit together. You should receive one gasket with your valve, and one with your adapter. Ater all your old oil has drained out, first put on ONLY the adapter. You need to do this alone, so that you can use your torque wrench to tighten it down to 18 ft-lbs. You'll use a 14-mm socket to do that. Once that is done, put your second gasket and the acutal oil drain valve on top of it, and screw that down, using a regular wrench. |
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This is how the clear vinyl hose will fit on the end of the Fumoto valve. You'll never have to get messy again from taking off the oil drain plug, because you'll never again take out the plug! In the future, just turn the valve, and the oil will flow out the open port on the valve, right into the vinyl tubing, as shown. Put the other end of the tubing into your drainage receptace. This still won't save you from the mess when you must remove the oil filter from the C6, however - that just cannot be avoided. |
 | The final appearance, with new filter, and my new Fumoto valve installed. The next oil change will be VERY easy !! |