When you buy a cruiser, the first add-on you should do is to install a set of engine guards. Similarly, with a sportbike, you're just crazy if you don't go out and slap on a pair of frame sliders before you even take the bike out. It's not important that they are strong enough to withstand a 150 mph highway crash - if you look for that you're missing the real point.
The goal here is just to prevent serious body damage that results from much more common, low velocity lay-downs. You know - the kind of thing you don't want to tell your buddies ? For example, stopping at a red light and having your shoe lace get caught on the footpeg - down go rider and bike. Or dropping the bike in the parking lot because you're chatting up some babe in a Camaro and forget to put your kickstand down. Or dropping the bike while trying to put it on your racing stands in the garage for repairs.
If you have a set of these in place, you'll get no visible damage to bike or slider. Without sliders installed, you'll scratch up your side plastics, break off your rearview mirror, scratch the exhaust system, and probably damage your handlbars too. So if you're reading this and you didn't know what "frame sliders" were - then stop reading right now - google it, hit up your credit card and get some ordered right now! Then come back and look below to see what's involved to install them.
Go to TOP
It seems like 99% of guys just put on a set of plain white plastic sliders, as I did originally. On a Gixxer these don't look bad, but eventually you may want to look at something just a little different. I originally bought these at the "Intuitive Racing Products" web site. Click on the logo at right to see what they're offering these days for Suzuki bikes.
Also take a look at Kneedraggers.com (click on image below), where you can pick up a pair for your Gixxer for about $40.
The "light up" sliders are a nice option if you really like to draw attention. These are sold by "Diamond Powersports". Of course if you get these, you'll have to run the appropriate wires to light them. They could be used as "running lights" (on all the time), or as turn signals. But you need to be familiar with wiring your bike if you're planning on this option. Also realize that this is totally illegal - you'll have to UNwire them before you get your state inspection done. On the side of the bike you are only legally allowed to have something like this wired as a turn signal, which means
So before you drop about 170 bones (YIKES!) on a set of these, you might want to look into the fine print of your state motor vehicle code, but you're going to find the basic ideas I've listed above.
Chrome is the way I finally decided to go.There are a number of sellers currently, and you can expect to pay in the range of $80 to $120 for a set of these, which is about 3 times more than you'll pay for simple white plastic. So do this after you've run out of better ways to spend your cash - like booze, women, exhaust system, power commander, etc.
I got mine at a place called "Second Look", which seems to have gone belly-up since then. So I cannot vouch for the fit and sturdiness of the kneedragger.com item. Look around a little bit before you buy. Also, please be sure you buy sliders that are specifically made for your bike. The size of the bolts may be different for any different model or year.
Finally, be aware that there is one other consideration: if you don't want to have to cut the plastic fairings on the bike, then you want "No-cut" sliders. A standard slider is more sturdy, but for most of us who just want some protection from a drop in the parking lot, a "no-cut" slider is adequate. If you lay the bike down at 150 mph,yes, the "no-cut" variety is more likely to snap off the frame, but either way your bike is toast. My opinion - stay with the No-cut variety, and be a little more careful about your riding skills in the first place. The bike will look better and re-sell better if you avoid cutting the plastics.
There's nothing at all to installing these - just UNbolt the original stock engine mounting bolts. Then use the new longer bolts (which come with your sliders) to mount the frame sliders onto the bike. The only challenge here is getting the stock engine mount bolts off the bike. I had to use an impact driver to loosen them, but it worked like a charm. Put a little WD-40 on the bolt before you smash it with the impact driver.
Note you do not want an "impact wrench" - one of those gadgets that is powered by compressed air - they run $150. With a little luck you should find a hand impact driver for $10 to $15. I got mine at NAPA for $32 just because they're right down the street from me. If in doubt, go to NAPA and tell them you need to dislodge some really tough allen head bolts, and they'll get you in the right direction.
You'll also need to buy a "3/8" drive hex bit socket set with an M10 bit to fit into your engine mounting bolts, so that you can smack the hell out of them to get them out. These are tough to find. The have them at NAPA (where I got mine) but probably overpriced. You can search on the web using these terms: METRIC ALLEN HEX BIT SOCKET SET TOOL. Some dealers want $60-$120 for these - WAYYYYY TOO MUCH. I found two items below that are perfect for your needs.
Remember, you really need to buy an allen hex bit socket set that contains a 3/8" drive M10 bit - that's the only one you'll use. If it's not a 3/8" drive socket, it won't fit your impact driver.
IMPORTANT: you must have a torque wrench to install frame sliders, and you need one anyway for numerous other tasks on the bike. The correct tightening torque for the engine mounting bolts is 39.8 ft-lbs. If you over-torque them and strip the holes, you'll be in a world of pain, man --you've just ruined the FRAME of the bike--so don't even think about saving a few bucks by NOT buying a torque wrench. It's easy enough to get one of these at most auto parts stores. I would recommend getting one that goes up to at least 100 ft-lbs. If you're planning on doing brake work on automobiles, you might have to go even higher, but most simple tasks on motorcycles and autmobiles can be done at 100 ft-lbs or less. Here's a pretty good one from Northern Tools. Although it only goes up to 80 ft-lbs, that's enough to install your frame sliders:
Northern Tools Torque Wrench - click on pic
There's no need for any detailed explanation here, but if you like pics, there are some of my chrome sliders being installed. Just look at the right side of the bike, and you'll see the engine mount bolt - obviously one of the very large bolts that mounts the engine to the frame of the bike. Use your impact driver and M10 hex bit to knock that bolt loose. Then just bolt your frame slider in place, using the NEW M10 bolt that is supplied with your frame sliders. You cannot just use the bolt that came with the bike, because the bolt will have to be a little longer, to accomodate the width of the frame slider. Here is a picture of the right sided frame slider installed. Nothing could be simpler, although it may take some real muscle to get that stock bolt off.
Remember to use your torque wrench to tighten the new engine mount bolt to 39.8 ft-lbs. Do not over-torque, and to not leave it too loose either.
Then do the same on the left side of the bike. Only on this side of the bike, you'll have to remove the plastics first, in order to get access to the engine mount bolt. A true "no-cut" slider is supposed to install without the need for any cutting at all, but don't be surprised if you have to do just a little bit of trimming to allow the slider to exit the hole in the plastic correctly. This trimming or cutting is easily accomplished using a Dremmel tool with a rotary cutting bit, which you can buy at any hardware store.
I really dig these chrome frame sliders. As I stated above, they are outrageously expensive, but when I finally saved the money, I was really happy with the result. The store called "Second Look" where I got these is no longer in business. But I've posted some links above where you can start looking if you're interested.
Here is the hardware you should expect to get, whether or not you order chrome or plastic sliders:
Use the impact driver to loosen and remove the stock bolts. My new bolts, shown here, required an 8mm allen wrench to install. Then use your torque wrench with an allen bit, to tighten down to 39.8 ft-lbs. Unfortunately I just wasn't able to use the torque wrench on the right side of the bike, because of the depth of the hole in the slider. So I just had to use my wrist-gauge and do my best.
My left slider just did not fit through the plastics correctly. I marked off an area to cut, using a white marker.
Here is the plastic after cutting with my friend, Mr. Dremmel:
Final appearance.
Overall a good result -- matches the frame, and now the eye is not immediately drawn to the huge white things sticking out of my engine. The old ones were a bit like having a huge ZIT on the end of your nose. These are better.
Do they work? How the hell should I know? Ask someone who crashes a lot -- not me !
For those of who thinking about making your own frame sliders, this may help a bit. The right side is simple, and the measurements of the plastic part are the same as on the left. The LENGTH of the plastic part, sticking outward from the frame of the bike, is 78mm on both sides of the bike. The measurements of the left sided "no-cut" bracket are shown here.
If you have to buy spools for your racing stand to lift the rear wheel, then why not kill two birds with one stone? Get these swingarm sliders that protect your swingarm but can also be used to lift the bike. The ones I have are by a company called "Intuitive Racing", which also made the thie frame sliders shown above on this page. Just attach them with the supplied bolts. Your bike already has the hole in the swingarm just sitting and waiting for these ! Click on logo at right.
A set of frame sliders is definitely the first accessory you should add to any bike. For about $40 for a set of plain white sliders you can protect your bike from hundreds of dollars worth of damage just from a tip-over in the parking lot. Note that just replacing a broken-off rearview mirror will run you $200. So before you think about any engine mods OR any appearance mods, hit some of the links above and get this done. For simple tip-overs, a no-cut slider is just fine.