I am told by some police buddies, that the hidden kill switch is an idea that's been around for decades, and has frustrated many a bike- or car-thief. The idea is very simple. You know the bright red kill switch on the right handlebar? It disables the ignition and the starter motor circuits. If this is set to KILL, then it doesn't matter if you own the bike or not -- you're sure not going to get it started. The only way to steal a bike with a hidden kill switch is
So the idea is --"Why not make my own kill switch like this, and HIDE it somewhere that only I know. Then even if someone has my keys, he can't start the bike unless he can find my switch."
I Did this on my bike, and I feel very secure with the results.
Also see below for some other ideas for making your bike secure from all the theives out there.
Hey, maybe you don't agree with me - bike security is actually a place where riders seem to have violent disagreements. But this is my web page 
- so I get to say what I like.
Here is what I recommend for every rider. Pick and choose one, two, or all three of these. I personally have all three. Of course (1) and (4) are on the bike all the time, so they are used every time I stop the bike. The lock options (2) and (3) are very good, but because they take extra time and effort, no one will use these every time they park, and I admit I don't either - it's just too inconvenient. I only add them if I'm in an area that I think is higher risk.
Of course a lock does you no good if you're not using it - and that's what limits their effectiveness. The kill switch, on the other hand, is the easiest thing in the world to use - you just step off the bike, click the switch and it's set. Consider these four options for your bike security:
Hidden kill switch: An absolute must-have. The best protection you can have, and costs only $3.
Ordering is a bit confusing - the manufacturer web page has a place on the left margin where you can select your bike, and get guidance on what models will fit it. My advice: go with the XR-1 or XD-1: or model with a locking pin ≤ 10mm diameter. My old Xena has a 10 mm locking pin and fits great. Also you can print the Xena fit guide to help you. Just be sure not to resize it when you print. The one I have is old - the model number is "PU XE1".
Take off the right fairing, and find the large black plastic connector that has two looped wires on it : one is O/Bl, and the other looped wire is O/R, as shown in this picture.
What is NOT visible in this picture is the O/B wire, which is hidden behind the o/w wire here. Don't use the O/W wire for your kill switch -- it WILL cut all the power to your ignition, but does not cut power to your starter engine, so some idiot COULD just crank and crank and crank your starter engine, even though you'd never get any ignition. I made the error of using the O/W wire first, and discovered my folly. I had to go back in and re-do the project using the O/B wire, which is the better choice.
Cut the Orange/Black wire for this project - that's the one you want.
Look for the O/B wire, at a location ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE BLACK PLASTIC CONNECTOR AS THOSE WIRE LOOPS YOU SEE. Just cut the O/B wire, run some long leads over to a nice hidden location, and mount a simple SPST switch. Works like a charm!
If you see a large black plastic connector with these orange LOOPS of wire coming out of it -- you've found the right location. The wire that looks black in this picture is, in reality, the Orange with a black stripe wire (O/B), and that's the one you want to cut, at precisely this location. Make sure you cut on the same side of the connector as where you see those loops.
The yellow arrows show how I initially did this project usin the O/W wire, which is not the best choice. The arrows show how I've cut the O/W wire through, then connected two long lengths of orange wire. These long wires are run to the back of the bike, at a hidden location where I've mounted my SPST switch. You'll want to do the same thing - but be sure to use the O/B wire, instead of the O/W that I showed in this picture.
The red arrow here shows the location of the O/B wire, which is the one you want to use. Cut it though, solder your extension wires onto the cut ends, run those extensions to a hidden location, and connect them with an SPST switch. DONE!
You can see that the location where you can access this O/B wire is on the right side of the bike, next to the radiator cap.
Again, just to be clear - switching off the O/W wire DOES disable power to the ignition coils, but power is still connected to the starter engine. This allows the thief to crank and crank away on the starter engine, thus killing your battery and the starter motor. I didn't like that. I wanted the starter engine to be disabled, IN ADDITION TO the ignition coils. So the next day I undid this, reconnected the two ends of the cut o/w wire back to stock, and cut the Orange/Black wire instead. Then these two long orange leads come away from the o/b wire to my hidden SPST switch location.
This is the switch I used: Radio Shack SPST Automotive Flip Switch #: 275-701, cost $2.69 . The contacts are rated at 16 Amps, a hell of a lot more than even both of your high beams together use on that bike, so you have no worries in that regard. Pick a location that will not get a lot of water exposure - but I've had no problems riding in the rain.
I really love having the kill switch. Put it somewhere that you can easily reach it an nonchalantly flick it every time you get off the bike, without being obvious. Flick it on as you sit on the bike and you're ready to zoom off.