Here are a few tips on how to hook up some cool turn signals. It's very easy to wire your stock signals to act as running lights and as turn signals. You can also modify your stodk rearview mirrors so that they hold your turn signals, and even running lights if you want.
There's just no end to the lighting you can add to your bike if you want to. I do lots of night riding, so these things actually are helpful for safety, but more than that I just do it to show that it can be done. 
The Lockhart-Phillips flushmount "marker lights" are the standard for guys who want to replace their stock signals. Traditionally they have come in five basic styles, as shown below.
Most bike shops will have all types of Lockhart-Phillips flush mount turn signals sitting on the shelf. There's only one dealer on the web where I know you can get them currently. I'll post up others if I can find them.
Check out the actual measurements of the lights before you buy. Some types of signals are available in several different sizes. Get the biggest ones that will fit in your planned mounting location. Also have in the back of your mind that unless the signals are 3.5" or larger, they will not pass your state inspection. That means that every two years you have to rip these off and put your stock signals back on just to pass inspection. So by all means, do not throw away your stock signals.
The LP3 is the only light I know that you can get the actual light itself (not the total size of the plastic housing) in a 3.5" size. The others have actual light surfaces that are much smaller, even if the length of the housing might be greater than 3.5".
Because of the nuisance of changing your signals out every two years for inspection, after many years of aftermarket signals, I have gone back to re-mounting my stock signals again. Now I don't have to worry about the next inspection.
If you've got a nice new gixxer, you really don't want to go cutting the plastic, nor drilling holes, to install your new turn signals. Think about it - next month you might see a nicer pair of signals and want to trade up. You don't want to be left with unsightly holes scarring up your ride. So you need a way to attach your new signals without drilling or cutting. You need the Glockem Method.
Glockem is a good guy from gixxer.com who posted up his method years ago. It is a clever way to use zip ties to secure your signals in place. Download the detailed pdf instruction set. He originally did this with LP1's. But I also used this trick to mount my LP3's and it worked like a charm.
The LP3 front turn signals mounted and wired as running lights.
Without any wiring tricks at all, you can add a running light function to your turn signals by replacing the stock signals with LP3 dual filament signals. Here's what the bulb types mean:
Then, the easiest way to get running lights and turn signals both on your front turn signals is just to wire up a pair of "dual filament" bulb signals, like the LP3. You can buy the LP3 in either dual-filament or single-filament bulbs, but if you get dual-filament bulbs it's easier, as shown below. You'll connect one of the HOT inputs for the lights to a constant ON wire. The other HOT input for the lights gets connected to your stock turn signal wire. The third wire you'll see coming out of the LP light will be a B/W wire, which of course is the ground wire.
The whole key is to find the brown wire in the wiring harness. This wire carries +14.5V whenever the bike is running. So it is a perfect carrier for our running light function. Take off the right fairing and look at the harness on the right-front aspect of the frame. As you can see, this is near to the radiator cap. Find the large green plastic electrical connector -- there is only one.
Leading into that connector, you'll find the brown wire. You can't miss it because that's the only solid brown wire on the whole bike!
In these photos, I have already "tapped" into that brown wire using a "scotchlok" side tap splice connector (the little red gizmo that lets you tap into a wire with minimal hassle). I have connected a long blue wire to that brown wire. Then this long blue wire will be the one that gets connected to the input for the running light function of my LP3's. I also then split the blue wire into a "Y", so that I could run it not only to the right turn signal, but also to the left turn signal. On each side, it will be connected to the LP3 solid black wire (the running light input).
Here are the wiring color codes that LP uses:
| Suzuki Wire | LP wire |
| Right turn signal | |
| Light green (flasher hot) | Red |
| B/W (ground) | B/W |
| Brown (running light hot) | Black |
| Left turn signal | |
| Blue (flasher hot) | Red |
| B/W (ground) | B/W |
| Brown (running light hot) | Black |
The yellow arrow identifies my left turn signal hot wire, connected to the LP red. The Suzuki B/W wire (red arrow) is connected to the LP B/W wire.
I attached a quick disconnect, so that the next time you want to take off the fairing, you can just unplug the lights. If you forget to do this and just solder all your connections, then next time you want to take off the fairing you'll have to cut the wires again. Silly, but I"ve done it before.
Also, DON"T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE YOU START -- you won't blow up the bike, but you're bound to blow lots of fuses if you forget to do this.
Here's a detailed wiring diagram to put you in the right direction.
The brown wire is the key here. You'll be really glad to have running lights, rather than just plain signals like everybody else!! Here's your new cool look from the front - the final appearance.
I have a buddy nicknamed "Maddness" at gixxer.com. A while back, he thought of a clever way to make a single filament bulb function as both a running light and a turn signal. To do this, you have to use an SPDT relay.
I've made a diagram for anyone who wants to try it. The difference with this method is that the lights will blink from full on to full off, whereas in a dual filament setup (as described above) the lights will blink from half-on to full-on. You'll have to wire 1 relay like this on each turn signal, so you'll need two. I wired my turn signals like this on my cruiser, using the "Radio Shack #275-248A SPDT mini PC Relay".
As you can see, these are very tiny relays, very easy to conceal beneath the plastics on the bike, once your wiring is done.
Here is the "pinout" diagram for this relay. It is a bit unusual. The 275-248 relay has contacts rated at 10 amps, far more than you'll need. Click to buy on the web. The cost is about $3 each. 
For a fully detailed, complete wiring diagram of the Maddness Method, enlarge the graphic at left.
Be aware that this modification will reverse the polarity of the flashing of your signals. By this I mean the following. The stock gixxer has the signals totally off until you hit the flasher button. Then the appropriate light flashes on briefly, followed by off for about twice as long --- a short ON, long OFF ------ this cycle is repeated. The new setup reverses that situation, as shown in the schematic. The lights are now always on as running lights, then when you hit the flash button, they will have a short OFF, long ON cycled over and over until you cancel the blinker.
Only the lights that you connect to pin 87A will have their "polarity of flash" reversed". This is a nice trick to use if you have a set of signals that you love (like a pair of Watsen Design LED turn signals) that are only meant to function as single filament bulbs, but you'd like to run that as both running lights AND turn signals. Then the Maddness Method is your answer. If you were to do this (as I have, your front Watsen turn signals will stay on as running lights yet still blink as flashers when you hit the turn signal. But your rear turn signals of course would not be affected at all, and they will actually flash opposite to your front signals. You get the picture.
Go to TOPIf you can find signals small enough to fit on your mirrors without looking awkward, you can do this. I think it makes a nice addition to the stock bike, with better visibility. The LP5's are perfect for this task, measuring 2.25" X 1.25". They just attach to the surface of the mirror with adhesive, so if you can find a way to route the wires, you're all set ! Note: these should NOT be wired as running lights - see below.
How do you open the mirror housing ? You don't. The stock mirrors are seated very tightly in their housings and glued in place. Trying to pry them off is very likely to result in a broken mirror, and then you're in a bit of trouble. Replacing a single mirror is $200, so I don't encourage you to try that.
Instead, you just have to know that the mirror housing is hollow. You can drill two small holes in the mirror housing as you see in the picture. Use a coat hanger and bend a hook in the end. Then push the coat hanger through the left hole, and out the right hole. This leaves the hook at the right.
Now you can attach your electrical wire to the hook at the right, and pull it through the mirror, out the left side. After that is done, just solder the turn signal light to your wires, and stick the light on the mirror using the adhesive that comes attached to the light. Done!
I'd recommend staying with lights that are stick-ons, rather than bolt-ons, because bolting lights on the mirror again would require you to open the mirror, which you cannot easily do.
Here's the final result. The appearance is good, but not perfect. The 2002 GSXR did not have any rubber "boots" to cover the mirror stems, and this means that the wires are still visible as they travel along the stem. You can see hear that I just zip tied them in place. But that means a "less than perfect" result.
Well, my buddy "Maddness" from gixxer.com sent me an extra pair of boots that he wasn't using. They fit over my mirror stems nicely, concealing those wires to give me a much more professional final appearance.
Click to enlarge: the final appearance, with the LP5''s wired as running lights and turn signals, using the Maddness Method.
Unfortunately, the LP5's are just not meant for continuous use, and their housings cannot withstand the heat generated by their bulbs when used as running lights. It's not really fair that LP never tells you that, and leads you to believe you could use these for any application you want--- they're just labeled "marker lights". But in fact I learned the hard way that these can only be used as turn signals.
So I replaced these burned up lights with a new set, and just wired them as pure turn signals, eliminating the running light function by taking them out of the tricky relay circuit. In other words, now they are just wired to be OFF, until activated as turn signals, when they will blink. With the brief intermittent use as signals, they've showed no signs of melting after 2 years of use.
The bottom line: don't try to use LP5's as running lights. Use them only as pure turn signals.