Wigwag

What's a WIGWAG? It means making your headlights alternately flash on and off, "wigwagging" from left to right. This is what police and other emergency vehicles have on their headlights. Of course, if you're NOT an emergency vehicle, it's totally illegal to have any flashing lights at all, so consider this another mode "for off road use only."

The other half of this mod is not just to do it, but to do it for almost no cost at all. And once you learn about the SPDT relay, then wiring this up is a snap.

If you haven't read the section on relays yet, you should check that out first, then come back here and see below on how to turn an SPDT into a cool lighting effect!

Parts

DPDT switch best to check at Lowes, where I got mine Cost: about $4
NAPA #552 Flasher Cost: $1.17 Makes an electric pulse that goes on and off repeatedly.
NAPA # AR143 SPDT Relay Cost: $7.76 Alternately switches current from pin 87a to 87 and back again.

Where to buy

You should be able to get the flasher and SPDT relay at any auto parts store. I always like NAPA in my area. But Auto Zone or Pep Boys should have these common items around. You might even have some luck at Walmart. I've provided a link above where you can click to get the Radio Shack switch. But NAPA's web site sucks the big one - even though I KNOW they carry these items in the stores, there's no way you'll ever be able to find them on the web. So you'll just have to stop by in person instead.

The DPDT switch is a bit of a challenge. You might try an online parts warehouse, like Digikey. But the only place I could only find a DPDT switch was at Lowes, in their electrical department, so I'd suggest looking there. Here are the specifics on the switch that I've used, which has worked well for the past 6 years:

• Gardner Bender® Plastic DPDT, plastic toggle (3-position):
• Cost: $3.76
• Specs: 20amp @ 125VAC,
  10amp @ 277 VAC,
  has 1/4 " spade terminals,
  package says only "GSW-116"- I'm guessing that's the product number.

Total cost for all items: $12.69.

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Wiring Diagram

If you've got your

• flasher unit
• SPDT relay
• DPDT switch

along with some soldering supplies and wire, then you are ready to go. Click the wiring diagram below for a full sized view of our project: It will open in a new window, so that you can still have this page open.

Notice that the diagram is HUGE - it will be larger than your screen, so use your mouse button to enlarge to full size so you can read all the text clearly.

Here's the way it works: the DPDT switch has 3 positions.

1. Centered, the headlights are off.
2. Switch to the left connects the green wires to power, causing both low beams to stay continuously on.
3. Pushing switch to the right connects the blue wires to the circuit, causing low beam headlights to wigwag.

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Other Notes

Low beam vs. High beam wigwag

This version was setup to make the low beam headlights wigwag, of course you can use it for high beams if you want.

Quenching diode, "back EMF"

Electricians will tell you that a "quenching" diode, 1 amp, connecting pin 86 to 85 (pointing toward 85, and not shown in this diagram) is a good idea to manage Back-EMF, and make your relay last longer. But that's not absolutely necessary, and full explanation of that is beyond the scope of this page. Though I don't use my wigwag lights often (because it is ILLEGAL!), I've had this mod for 6 years and have never replaced my relay yet.

I have personally wired my bike this way for now, so I can verify that if works perfectly.

Finding a DPDT switch:

It can be really tough to find one of these. If you can't get one at Lowes, you should check out the Radio Shack version: DPDT Rocker Switch $3.99 Catalog #: 275-695 . There are two important points, however: first, the specs are not available to me on the web for this switch. Be sure that it has contacts rated 10 amps each. Each contact in fact will only carry a maximum of 4.2 amps, but it's good to be safe. Second, this rocker switch does not have a center off position, so you will forfeit that benefit. Personally I really like having the option to totally shut the lights off, for example if I'm starting the bike in very cold conditions, or if my battery has been run down for any reason.

Suzuki Wiring Color codes:

Here's a picture of the wiring harness exposed by removing the right fairing. Don't be afraid to get in there, cut off the protective black wraps, and check out the wires. You'll see that Suzuki was GREAT at setting a wiring color code and FAITHFULLY adhering to it throughout the entire bike. Here are some hints on the ZUKE wiring color codes that you can hang your hat on:

• The solid white wire carries current for the low beams
• Solid yellow carries current for the high beams
• Any Red wire (regardless of stripe color) = HOT all the time, regardless of ignition
• Any W/B wire = GND
• Any solid white wire = low beam hot, and is OFF when high beams activated
• Any solid yellow = high beam hot, and is OFF when low beam activated
• Any Orange wire (regardless of stripe color) = HOT only when ignition on
• Any Brown wire = running light hot wire
• Any W/B wire = brake light hot wire.

Remember, the coloring convention is that the predominant color is stated first, followed by the color of the stripe. Some guys call the stripe on the wire a "tracer". So a W/B wire means a "white wire with a black stripe". An "O/R" wire means "orange wire with a red stripe". Just to be clear.

Here's the end result:

You can use this in the parking lot at the bar to impress all your squid friends. But be aware if any LEO sees you doing this on the road, you're in BIGGGG trouble - so be discreet!

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